Alfama aos olhos de Rick Steves

In the late afternoon, for a quintessential Lisbon drink, duck into one of the funky hole-in-the-wall shops throughout town and ask for a ginginha (zheen-zheen-yah). Sold for about €1 a shot, it's a sweet liquor made from the sour cherry-like ginja berry, sugar, and schnapps. The only choices are: With or without berries (com or sem elas— that's "with them" or "without them" ) and gelada if you want it from a chilled bottle — very nice. In Portugal when someone is impressed by the taste of something, they say, " Sabe melhor que nem ginjas" ("It tastes even better than ginja").